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Smell of Success BY BERNARD MORAN Not too long ago intricate fragrances for men were reserved for the very rich or very famous. The few that existed were marketed as everyman fragrance products. Old Spice, which is still available, was the most popular brand. However, by the 1960s, Brut had become the cologne of choice for men. No exact demographic figures are available, but most cologne wearers were either young men trying to impress women or older men who wanted to seem sophisticated. Today, men’s colognes have gone mainstream and now have almost as many fragrance choices as women. Men’s colognes are everywhere – drugstores, discount stores, jewelry stores, department stores, even convenience stores and all the big fashion names are vying for their share of the market: Polo, Calvin Klein, Bill Blass, Tommy Hilfiger, Chanel, Armani, Hermes, Cartier, Tiffany ... the list goes on and on. Prices vary greatly, too, from knock off brands selling for under $20 for three ounces to over $125 for the top names in fragrances. With all these options, it is difficult to decide what to choose. Personal preference, based on trial and error, is probably the best method, or perhaps a consult with the wife or girlfriend. Most department stores have tester bottles that can be sprayed on the skin for comparison purposes. Of course, buying one of the most popular fragrances is one method of choosing a cologne. According to market research firm, NPD Beauty, the five best-selling men’s fragrances last year were: Acqua di Gio by Armani; Polo Blue; Eternity for Men by Calvin Klein; Obsession for Men by Calvin Klein; and Armani Mania. These are all mid-priced colognes available at drugstores and department stores. Acqua di Gio (1.7 oz., $39.50) is an incredibly light citrus scent, which certainly will not offend anyone. Polo Blue (2.5 oz., $39.50) is available at all Polo stores and some department stores and is recognizable because of its distinctive Navy blue bottle with the gold logo of a polo player. It has a woodsy aroma with melon undertones. Eternity for Men by Calvin Klein (3.4 oz., $45) has a spicy sweet aroma and is refreshing and crisp. Obsession for Men (2.5 oz., $35) also by Calvin Klein, has an oriental, woodsy aroma. Armani Mania (3.4 oz., $57.50) features a light, sweet scent. High-end men’s colognes can usually be found in exclusive department stores like Neiman-Marcus. Gail Banfield, cosmetics and fragrance manager of Neiman-Marcus Galleria in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, feels that cologne today is for men of all ages. She mentions Angel by Thierry Mugler (3.4 oz., $100), which is one of its top-selling items. She describes it as “warm, rich with a little spice.” The typical wearer is “someone 15 to 50,” which covers a lot of generational ground. DV by Duc de Vervin (4 oz., $125) is very strong and aromatic, definitely not for the shy or fainthearted. The well-known French brand Hermes is also represented at Neiman-Marcus by Eau D’Orange Vert (6.5 oz., $95), which has hints of both orange and lime in its scent. Another recently introduced Hermes brand is Un Jardin en Mediterranee (3.3 oz., $120), which is citrusbased and sweet. For the younger man, Chanel Allure Homme Sport (1.7 oz., $42.50) is sweet with a hint of citrus. Another popular scent for the younger man is Tiffany Sport (3.3 oz., $75), which is sold exclusively at Tiffany outlets. Young, old or middle-aged, American men have taken to smelling better and women can now breathe a collective sigh of relief.

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