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Cheese Whiz!
Gourmands Find Fancy Fromages Fantastic
By jill rush
When the guy at the deli counter asks Spencer Chesman if he wants cheese on his sandwich, the CEO and chairman of IGourmet.com breaks into a grin. Cheese just isn't that simple to someone whose family has been selling top-shelf imported cheeses for decades. For lack of a better comparison, he knows his Gouda from his Swiss.
If you love cheeses made from across the pond, the French remain tops among the Brie and Camembert crowd. But did you know that the French keep the really good stuff to themselves because imported Brie must be extra-processed to meet strict U.S. regulations, which means the “real” Brie can only be found in France .
Cheese makers are even tossing around the political football. Jonathan White is a dedicated cheese maker whose Bobolink Dairy farm (www.cowsouthside.com) creates cheeses that are in demand among the nation's presidents. “The Clinton White House served many of our cheeses over the years,” says White. Presidential palates were always given the absolute best of his stock, which comes from grass-fed cows that are specifically raised outdoors for the best possible quality milk production. This year, White created a Kerry Inaugural cheese from Kerry cattle, a rare breed that dates to 2000 BC. The Whites even named their bull John. Asked what the Kerry Inaugural cheese would taste like, White was somewhat philosophical. “It's hard to say, but every new cheese is like a baby; you can peek, but you don't really know what you've got until it's born.”
Want something truly decadent and expensive? Chesman recommends Boschetto, a quality Italian variety that has actual shavings of white truffles throughout. While the price varies according to the persnickety truffle market, Boschetto typically sells for about $32 for a 11/2 pound wheel. By comparison, the popular Italian Grana Padano sells for $10 per pound.
Berkswell, a limited production cheese made in England from sheep's milk, sells for $20 per half-pound wedge. It's the priciest cheese available, says Chesman, aged at the world famous Neil's Yard cheese-aging house in London. Who buys it? “Basically anybody who is curious about why a cheese would cost so much money.”
For a buttery, tangy flavor, look to southwestern England in the cheese-making community of Somerset for the award-winning cheddar from Coombe Farms. Cheddar, which is not an American invention, by the way, got its name from nearby Cheddar Gorge. “The best cheddars still come from England,” said Chesman.
From Spain, consider some unusually seasoned Malagon, a flavorful Spanish cheese laced with aromatic rosemary that is infused into the rind. “You don't eat the rind, but the rosemary goes into the whole flavor of the cheese,” said Chesman.
UNITED STATES
Look for unique varieties from a growing number of quality small cheese makers, much as you would search for unusual wines at a small family vineyard. One of the best domestics is Berkshire Blue, a Massachusetts-born blue cheese that Chesman swears has fooled aficionados with its remarkably European flavor.
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