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Rum: Spirit of Summer
Rum's History Has Caribbean Roots
By Patricia Jacobs
Rum is often associated with Caribbean pirates and “rum runners,” but that's only part of this spirit's history. Legend has it that the Dutch first brought sugar cane to Barbados in the early 17 th century, and the island soon became the sugar capital of the Caribbean.
Meanwhile, distillers in New England colonies were importing molasses to make rum. In 1654, Connecticut became alarmed by the number of barrels of rum flooding into its ports, banned the Barbados imports to protect local distillers, and began confiscating the cargos of “rum runners.”
Sugar cane, molasses, and rum production spread throughout the Caribbean and today, most rum for export is made in Barbados, Trinidad, Jamaica, Cuba, Puerto Rico, and Guyana (South America).
In 1733, England's Parliament passed the Molasses Act, which imposed a duty on molasses in an attempt to control manufacture of rum. New England colonists ignored it, smuggling supplies for their distilleries from the French and Spanish West Indies. Some smuggling profiteers became pirates and, well the rest is history.
Rum is still making history as the definitive drink of summer beach houses, chic bars, and regattas. Some of the most popular rum concoctions have exotic names: Cuba Libre, Pina Colada, Mai-Tai, Daiquiri, Zombie, Planters Punch, Blue Hawaiian, and Hurricane.
Although rum may never knock vodka off its popularity pedestal, there are some hot new distillations — and some old premium classics — to keep your taste buds tantalized.
“Rum's going to be very popular over the next couple of years,” says Dale DeGroff, author of “The Craft of the Cocktail” (Clarkson Potter). He points to rhum agricole — handcrafted from pure sugar cane and aged without the addition of molasses. Matured for around six months, these rums range from subtle to immensely flavorful — unlike typical filtered white rums.
“Tastes — from cuisine to the drinks we enjoy — are going toward bigger flavor,” explains DeGroff. Take a sip of 10 Cane from Trinidad, Starr from Mauritius, or Brugal Anejo from the Dominican Republic and you can smell the succulent cane being liberated from its root. Drink it straight up, on ice, or with fresh ingredients such as lime or mint.
And of course, the amber-hued classics like Appleton Estate and Mount Gay Extra Old (the world's oldest rum, since 1703) are the granddaddies of these fresh-faced upstarts. Born in copper stills and raised in oak barrels for up to 18 years and beyond, their rich full flavors can stand up to rocks even on a hot summer any day.
Captions:
The ultra premium Pyrat Cask 23 from Anguilla is aged up to 40 years and comes in a hand-blown bottle, $260.
The ultra-refined Starr from Mauritius, Africa ($30) boasts notes of cardamom and citrus in a South Africa-made bottle.
The new 10 Cane prestige rum from Trinidad ($35) is crafted from first-pressed virgin cane and matured in French oak barrels.
The cherry oak-aged Bacardi 8 Millennium from Puerto Rico comes in a limited-edition Baccarat crystal decanter, $750.
Appleton Estate Extra Jamaica Rum, aged up to 12 years, is regarded as the “Cognac of the Caribbean” ($29.99).
Commemorating its 300 th year, Mount Gay Tricentennial comes in a limited-edition decanter, available in Barbados ($600).
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